In recent years, the agenda of governments, companies, and international organisations has prioritised sustainable development in our industries, including the textile and footwear industries in order to reduce their environmental impact. As a result, there has been a growing promotion of resource efficiency aimed at a circular economy that mitigates the environmental impact of these sectors[1].
Textile and footwear reuse, particularly for textiles, as footwear reuse is often limited by hygienic and ergonomic factors, has become a popular way to extend product lifespan. This includes repairs, repurposing for a new purpose, upcycling, and donations, among many others, allowing individuals and businesses to reduce their environmental footprint while helping those in need[2].
However, the recycling of textile and footwear products promises to transform the industry towards a circular economy by providing innovative recycled materials. When it comes to textile, fibre-to-fibre recycling helps reduce the production of virgin textile fibres, as well as lowering energy consumption and carbon dioxide emissions compared to the production of virgin materials, resulting in a significant positive effect on the environment. Textile recycling helps reduce water usage by converting waste materials into textiles that require less water and produce fewer emissions than new materials2.
Textile recycling is a critical part of modern waste management and can be classified into four categories: upcycling, downcycling, closed-loop recycling, and open-loop recycling[3]. Upcycling processes tend to be classified as craft-based, artistic, and individual and require manual interventions as a sustainable method of creating a new item of clothing that has a longer shelf-life[4]. In summary, upcycling is a reuse methodology, primarily usable by end users. For example, a pair of jeans can be transformed into a skirt as an upcycling method[5]. Downcycling creates something new of lesser value without the need to fully reprocess raw materials, as recycling does. An example of downcycling would be taking a shirt and cutting it into wiping rags[6].
Converting plastic bottles into recycled polyester clothing is an example of open-loop recycling, breaking down waste material into basic components to create new products. On the other hand, fibre-to-fibre recycling represents a closed-loop recycling process in which the material is reused to create the same type of product. Closed-loop recycling is considered more environmentally friendly than open-loop recycling; however, it requires specialised infrastructure to carry out the recycling process4. Nevertheless, in recent years, significant advancements have been made in recycling procedures and technologies. The company Fast Feet Grinded has developed recycling processes for footwear materials such as foams, rubbers, textiles, and leathers to be reused as raw materials for both new footwear (closed-loop recycling) and the development of new products (open-loop recycling) such as urban furniture, sports courts, or insulation panels.[7]
Recycling footwear is a more complex task due to the variety of components, materials, and processes that make up a pair of shoes, such as the materials earlier mentioned. The properties of these materials are important, as they determine the lifespan of the shoes, and the environmental impact incurred during their life cycle. It is estimated that approximately 40 different materials are used in the manufacturing of a single shoe. The primary reasons for the industry’s environmental impact are due to the difficulties associated with conducting a complete separation and reclamation of so many materials in an economically efficient and sustainable way. Fabrics and textiles, on the other side, typically contain a single material or component, facilitating their recycling and reducing separation costs. The recycling process of footwear involves sorting the shoes by condition and material type and disassembling the components for recycling. Further investigation is required to enhance the disassembly and recyclability of shoes; however, several pilot projects are already underway in the EU[8].
The growing importance of sustainability in the sector has led manufacturers to intensify their efforts in recycling processes, rapidly promoting recycling initiatives in the textile and footwear industries. Strategies and policies have been established in different regions that will provide both environmental protection and economic efficiency[9]. For example, the concept of a recycled standard introduced in 2012 focuses on the recycling of both pre-consumer and post-consumer waste, with up to three certification levels depending on the percentage of recycled material contained in the product[10].
The EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles and Footwear, launched by the European Commission in July 2023, promotes greener and more competitive sectors. Its approach spans from product design to recycling, encouraging more sustainable practices to protect the environment and support businesses in their transition to more responsible models.[11]
Key measures for the textile and footwear industries include:
• Mandatory eco-design: Textiles and footwear must be durable, repairable, and recyclable. Minimum requirements for recycled fibres will be set, and the destruction of unsold or returned products will be prohibited.
• Clear consumer information: A “digital product passport” will accompany all consumer products, providing details about their environmental impact and recyclability.
• Combating greenwashing: Stricter controls will be imposed to prevent misleading environmental claims in consumer products.
• Reducing microplastics: Synthetic textiles like polyester release plastic particles into the environment[12]. The Strategy proposes measures to minimise these emissions through better designs and industrial processes.
• Extended producer responsibility: Manufacturers will be accountable for the entire lifecycle of their products, incentivising sustainable practices through fees adjusted to their environmental impact.
• Support for innovation and training: Projects will be funded to promote sustainable technologies and train sector workers with green skills.
The VETting Green project focuses on raising consumer awareness to help them make more informed purchasing decisions and identify greenwashing from genuine sustainable practices. It also aims to help textile and footwear companies prepare for upcoming environmental legislation, while promoting a circular economy.
[1] Communication from the Commission to the European Parliament, the Council, the European Economic and Social Committee and the Committee of the Region, EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, COM (2022) 141 final (Mar. 30, 2022).
[2] Kuuskvere, C. (2022). Opportunities and challenges for implementing circularity in textile production [Honors Thesis, Kenan-Flagler Business School]. https://doi.org/10.17615/3r3p-6071
[3] Abrishami, S., Shirali, A., Sharples, N., Kartal, G. E., Macintyre, L., & Doustdar, O. (2024). Textile recycling and recovery: An eco-friendly perspective on textile and garment industries challenges. Journal Title, 94(23-24). https://doi.org/10.1177/00405175241247806
[4] Bigolin, R., Blomgren, E., Lidström, A., Malmgren de Oliveira, S., & Thornquist, C. (2022). Material inventories and garment ontologies: Advancing upcycling methods in fashion practice. Sustainability, 14(5), 2906. https://doi.org/10.3390/su14052906
[5] Gathered. (n.d.). Upcycling clothes ideas. Retrieved January 13, 2025, from https://www.gathered.how/arts-crafts/upcycling-clothes-ideas
[6] Chicago Textile Recycling. (2020, June 15). 2 terms defined: Upcycle and downcycle. Retrieved January 13, 2025, from https://chicagotextilerecycling.com/2020/06/15/2-terms-defined-upcycle-and-downcycle/
[7] Fast Feet Grinded. (n.d.). Fast Feet Grinded – Homepage. Retrieved January 10, 2025, from https://www.fastfeetgrinded.eu/
[8] RecyclingInside. (2023, August 24). Footwear sustainability: Embracing recycling to tread lightly on earth. RecyclingInside. Retrieved January 10, 2025, from https://recyclinginside.com/textile-recycling/footwear-sustainability-embracing-recycling-to-tread-lightly-on-earth/
[9] Vadicherla, T., & Saravanan, D. (2014). Textiles and apparel development using recycled and reclaimed fibers. In Roadmap to sustainable textiles and clothing (pp. 139–160). Springer. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4614-6435-8_12
[10] Textile Exchange. (n.d.). Recycled claim & global recycled standard. Textile Exchange. Retrieved January 10, 2025, from https://textileexchange.org/recycled-claim-global-recycled-standard/
[11] European Commission. (n.d.). Textiles strategy. European Commission. Retrieved January 10, 2025, from https://environment.ec.europa.eu/strategy/textiles-strategy_en
[12] Acharya, S., Rumi, S. S., & Abidi, N. (2021). Microfibers from synthetic textiles as a major source of microplastics in the environment: A review. Textile Research Journal, 91(17–18). https://doi.org/10.1177/0040517521991244