VETting Green aims to promote transparency and a shared understanding of sustainable practices, helping to prevent greenwashing in the footwear, apparel, and related sectors.
The goal of the Policy Brief is to highlight existing policies and pave the way for the development of new ones that enable public bodies and stakeholders to achieve climate neutrality by 2050. This effort aims to foster sustainable growth in communities while actively engaging all participants in the footwear and apparel production process. Additionally, it seeks to address non-compliant practices that harm the industry’s reputation.
This Policy Brief is a starting point for the study and research on legislation regarding greenwashing, including the identification of successful cases on green claims communication.
The European Commission (EC) initiated its sustainability efforts in 2015 with the Circular Economy Action Plan, which included 54 measures to drive Europe toward a circular economy, boost competitiveness, foster growth, and create jobs. In 2019 and 2020, the EC introduced the European Green Deal and the New Circular Economy Action Plan, aiming for a carbon-neutral, fully circular, and environmentally sustainable Europe by 2050. Various regulations and proposals have since been launched, targeting waste management, eco-design, deforestation, and Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) issues.
The footwear and apparel industries have committed to sustainability by adopting practices like eco-design, traceability, and digital product passports. However, sustainability has also been used as a marketing tool, with many brands making vague or unsupported claims about being “recycled,” “biobased,” or “vegan,” leading to greenwashing. A 2020 EC study found that over 53% of environmental claims were misleading, and 40% were unsubstantiated.
To combat greenwashing, the EC has proposed regulations on green claims and is working to protect consumers from deceptive marketing. Additionally, the footwear and apparel sectors must develop new skills and training programmes to prepare the workforce for a more sustainable and competitive future.
Several EU policies and initiatives impact sustainability in footwear and apparel.
The European Commission’s key communications include the European Green Deal (COM 2019) for climate neutrality, and the Circular Economy Action Plan (COM 2020) for resource efficiency. The EU Biodiversity Strategy (COM 2020) aims to restore ecosystems, while the Fit for 55 (COM 2021) focuses on meeting 2030 climate targets. The Green Deal Industrial Plan (COM 2023) and Europe’s 2040 Climate Target (COM 2024) drive net-zero industries and long-term climate neutrality.
Recommendation (EU) 2021/2279 promotes the use of Environmental Footprint methods to assess and communicate the life cycle environmental performance of products (PEF) and organisations (OEF). It aims to standardise environmental impact measurements and enhance transparency in sustainability claims.
The Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (EU) 2022/2464 expands sustainability reporting to large companies and SMEs by 2024. The 2023/2772 Regulation establishes European Sustainability Reporting Standards (ESRS). Directive (EU) 2024/825 combats greenwashing by requiring clear sustainability information. Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence (EU) 2024/1760 holds large companies accountable for human rights and environmental impacts across their supply chains. Directive (EU) 2024/1799 promotes repairable goods to enhance consumer and environmental protection.
The Deforestation Regulation (EU) 2023/1115 prohibits products linked to deforestation post-2020 from being sold in the EU, affecting commodities like cattle, cocoa, and palm oil. The REACH Regulation (EU) 2023/2055 restricts the use of synthetic polymer microparticles (microplastics) starting October 2023. The Ecodesign Regulation (EU) 2024/1781 replaces the previous directive, establishing stricter ecodesign criteria for sustainable products, introducing digital product passports, and promoting green public procurement to reduce carbon and environmental footprints.
The Green Claims Directive (COM 2023/166) aims to regulate how companies prove and communicate environmental claims, preventing greenwashing. The Waste Directive Proposal (COM 2023/420) introduces Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for textiles, incentivising circularity and waste reduction. The Forced Labour Regulation (COM 2022/453) bans products made with forced labour from the EU market, requiring companies to undergo thorough inspections. Lastly, the Microplastics Regulation Proposal (COM 2023/645) targets preventing plastic pellet losses to reduce microplastic pollution, with further analysis needed for other sources.